The handle broke off my manual lawn aerator. It had been welded in place, and since I have an arc welder, I figured I should weld it back on. This was the first time I attempted to arc weld something with a real purpose to it. There were a few details to work out, such as the fact that I don't know if the welder works right, and I don't know if my welding rods are any good, and what was the other one? Oh yeah, I don't know how to arc weld. Well OK then, time to get started.

I received a Baldor metal grinder with 10-inch wheels, with a motor wired for three-phase industrial power. Three-phase power is not provided in U.S. residential homes, so I needed to power it from normal single-phase power. My solution was to build a balanced static phase converter, requiring only a few relatively inexpensive capacitors. (Much less expensive than that nuclear reactor I was considering.)

When I fixed up an old drill press, I found that the switch plate for the on/off switch was fairly worn. The original paint and lettering was worn away, so that the start/stop wording was almost unreadable. Even though I am clever enough to figure out that the big red button means "stop", it needed a clearly readable switch plate label.

I received a Baldor metal grinder with 10-inch wheels, on its own pedestal floor stand, discarded from a school metal shop program. Several owners before me did not know what to do with it, mainly because the motor is wired for three-phase industrial power which is not found in U.S. residential homes. My job was to fix it up and get it working.

There were two major tasks to the restoration: cleaning/repainting, and making the three-phase motor work.

My new grinder needed some task lighting for the grinding wheels. I decided to build a dedicated lamp for each side, controlled by the grinder power switch. This worked in perfectly with my latest obsession, I mean interest, which is LED lighting.

Any trained machinist will tell you that a drill press with a cheap jig is no substitute for a proper lathe. I'm not a trained machinist, so now that I've said that, let's get on to accomplishing something interesting.

Experienced people tell me that you should always get the best tools you can buy, because there is no substitute for the proper tool for a job. Don't be fooled into buying cheap tools, because you will be disappointed when the tool doesn't provide precision results or it breaks down on you.

I agree that in home improvement, woodworking, metal working, and other pursuits, it is always important to have the proper tool for the job. But what is the proper tool for the job, and how much should you spend on it?

Many woodworkers have dust collection systems, which use suction and large pipes and hoses to collect sawdust and other particles from power tools.  For the hobbyist, these systems can be affordable, below $1000 for a decent system.  Naturally, I therefore wondered what I could accomplish with my old shop vacuum, some junk from the garbage can, and about 20 bucks.

As a handyman and hobbyist, I find there are many everyday plastic objects that can be used to make interesting things.  Some of the most common useful plastics, such as high-density polyethylene (HDPE) and polypropylene (PP) just cannot be glued.  But they can be welded with hot air.  You may be surprised at what you can make with an old plastic bucket and a heat gun from the discount tool store.

 

After I made the mounting bracket, then I proceeded to create the blade guard and splitter.

I acquired a table saw last summer at a local estate sale for $20. It needed some repair, but looked like it was likely still in fairly good condition.

The label identifies it as a Powr-Kraft model TMG-3332A from Montgomery-Wards; date unkown. Looking at it, I guessed it was from the 1960s.

My used tablesaw came without a splitter/blade guard. This is an important safety item, so I am making one for the saw. The first step was to create a mounting bracket where it could attach.

After I repaired the electrical wiring on my garage-sale table saw, I inspected the mechanical workings. It appeared to be in good working condition. There were, however, no modern safety controls. I later found that this table saw was made somewhere around 1956, when blade guards were optional and belt guards weren't even offered.

My used tablesaw needed a new power cord and switch. The cord was clearly in bad shape. The on-off switch was spliced in with a mess of wire nuts and electrical tape. It was time for some basic electrical repair.